Thursday, March 17, 2011

Bruges and Onward!

We've had some internet access limits over the last couple days. We just spent three nights in Bruges, which is wonderful. If you ever have opportunity to come here, do it! I can post some pictures another day. It is a wonderful small city with great sights, friendly, hospitable people, and terrific food! We used it as a base, traveling by train to Brussels yesterday to see the Comic Strip Museum - and a lot of Tin Tin!d

Today we're headed east into Germany to find Stranzenbach, the home origin of Larry's maternal grandfather who was named - ta-da!- Stranzenback! That was Larry's mom's maiden name.

So - more to follow, with pictures! Hope I can get online tonight.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Whizzing through England

The morning we left Ilmington was beautiful. We went for a walk after breakfast, and enjoyed seeing the church and having a lovely conversation with a man out walking dogs. He told us details about The Apple Tapestry in the church that had been made by people in the parish about 10 years ago to highlight how the area had once been full of apple orchards. The man with whom we spoke, David Greenwood, is a calligrapher. He was responsible for putting the names of the 89 apple varieties around the edge. Here's Larry's picture of The Apple Tapestry:

From Ilmighton we drove to Gloucester and thoroughly enjoyed visiting that beautiful cathedral. We were especially enjoyed the tile work in the chancel, or presbytery. You can see good pictures of the biblical scenes therein on the Gloucester Cathedral website: www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk. Click on the Virtual Tour link on the left side and look for "Presbytery."

From Gloucester we went to Portsmouth. On the way we stopped in the little Village of Down Ampney. This is the birthplace of Ralph Vaughan Williams, and he named his beautiful hymn tune to "Come Down, O Love Divine" after this village of his birth. That is my favorite hymn, and it was lovely to visit this simple church.

After a difficult time finding our B and B in Portsmouth (it turned out we were one block away when we thought we were lost!) we had a great Indian meal. On Saturday we headed out into a beautiful day to go see the HMS Victory. It was really cool - much bigger than I had expected, although Larry was well acquainted with the dimensions. It is almost holy ground in England, with a brass plaque on the deck in the exact spot where Nelson died. Kind of reminded me of visiting the Alamo. Here's a picture of the Victory: We had a wonderful time walking all over Old Portsmouth - lots of walking! - and saw many interesting things. We ended the day with a great meal in a Turkish restaurant.

Today we went east from Portsmouth en route to Canterbury. We stopped at Sissinghurst Castle to see the famous gardens begun by Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicolson in the 19030's. It was beautiful even in its winter-spring plainness. We would love to see it in full bloom.

Our day ended with our arrival in Canterbury, with the attendant difficulties of finding anything in a car in the these ancient towns! But we finally figured out how to get into the Cathedral Close where we are staying at the Canterbury Cathedral lodge. It is right next to the Cathedral in the Close, and tonight we have a beautiful view of the lit majesty of this awesome structure. We attended a rather tedious Evensong which included the installation ("collation" they say) for the Archdeacon of a new area of the Diocese. It was rather powerful to see a bishop sitting in his chair in that place that has seen bishops (and archbishops) come and go since the 6th century! We found Larry's putative ancestor, Archbishop of Canterbury John Moore, in the carved wall of the cathedral. And we joined our daughter-in-law Sarah Murdoch who arrived today in England to research Rick Steve's Great Britain. She arranged to begin her journey in Canterbury so we could all meet up. After a tour of the cathedral we had a very good dinner. It was a lot of fun to be together! Here we are in the cloisters of the cathedral:


Across the Channel tomorrow!

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Ilmington and Coventry

There were a couple small internet glitches yesterday, so I post today. We arrived well in London and got our car, which seems to be just fine. We got ourselves to Ilmington without too many snags, and have a wonderful room at The Howard Arms. We've had good dinners both nights, and as I write we are finishing a bottle of wine in front of the fire!

Today we visited Coventry Cathedral, among other things. It was an amazing site to see. It was bombed in 1940, and they decided to leave the bombed-out shell and make it a sign of forgiveness and reconciliation. It is very powerful, especially paired with the new cathedral attached to it. There is truly beautiful and powerful art there, from the stained glass windows to the side pieces and gorgeous tapestry as a reredos curtain. Here are a couple pictures - the first is the bombed out old cathedral, the second is the high altar with the reredos tapestry and the nail cross made in silver. The nail cross was first done of burned timbers after the bombing by a cathedral worker, and it has become the symbol of the cathedral.
After Canterbury, we headed for Coleshill (pronounced Colezull) east of Birmingham. One set of Larry's ancestors came from there. We were very successful in our searches, especially with the help of the local librarians. Let's hear it for libraries! Woo-hoo!

On our way back to Ilmington, we tried again (one try in the morning) to find the little village of Winderton! We had seen it on the map, and found one road sign. But the village itself eluded us, although we think we drove through it once - three houses! But the name was good, and we did take a picture of the road sign!

Tomorrow we head for Gloucester on more Larry ancestor pursuits, and then to Portsmouth for two nights. It is lovely here in England. The climate is much like Seattle, but being farther north the days are longer. And their daffodils are already blooming!

Here's a picture of the Howard Arms:

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Europe, 2011

I'm going to try and do this with some consistency. I've said it before, but you never know when it might actually take! We're at Sea-Tac Airport waiting for our flight to London to begin a two-month trip in Europe. It will take us from England to Belgium to Germany to Denmark, Hungary, Italy, France, and points in between all those.

I've been thinking the last few days about why people write about travel. The British and the Germans really started the trend in the 19th century and greatly increased the yen to travel in others. But, when you think of it, the main story of the Old Testament is a travel narrative, from Abraham's journey through the wilderness wanderings. And much of the rest of the OT is commentary on that travel. When we move into new territory we start seeing and thinking differently. It may that the travel narrative helps us focus that sight and those thoughts.

So here is a more back-at-home piece. I'm currently reading Driftless by David Rhodes and it is a wonderful novel. These people in Words, Wisconsin are like a new community of friends, making their way through hazard and hope and finding new ways of being from old Amish ways to the perils of modern farming. It's not just about the Amish - in fact, they are like a background piece in the story - but it is about how a small community finds its way in the 21st century. I can't recommend it more highly. Get the book and meet Winifred the pastor, and Grahm and July the farmers, Gail the aspiring country singer, the widower Jacob, the annoyingly real Maxine, and many more. It is a great read! I hope to finish it on the plan ride tonight.

Blessings for the day wherever you own travels take you, near and far.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Epiphany

Today is the Feast of the Epiphany. All those magi in your nativity sets should have made their way to the baby Jesus now.

I woke up singing one of my favorite Epiphany hymns, Bishop Reginald Heber's (1782-1826) beautiful Brightest and Best of Stars of the Morning:

Brightest and best of the stars of the morning,
dawn on our darkness and lend us your aid.
Star of the east, the horizon adorning,
guide where our infant redeemer is laid.

It appears that we pray to stars on this day! Even the refrain for We Three Kings: "O Star of Wonder, Star of Light... guide us to thy perfect light." I've never quite thought what it means to pray to a star, or that the tradition had made the Christmas star(s) divine. An interesting thought for this day of the great star and the greater light.

Happy Epiphany!


Wednesday, January 5, 2011

The Twelfth Day of Christmas

As the Christmas season comes to a close, I thought I'd write about two Christmas books I read this season.

The first is Wishin' and Hopin' by Wally Lamb. A friend got it for me last spring when she went to a workshop where Lamb was one of the speakers, so I even have an autographed copy! It is a short book - especially for Lamb! -and a wonderful one. Set in an elementary school (largely a 5th grade class) in Connecticut in 1964, it follows the escapades of the students as Christmas approaches. It has a pageant on a par with The Best Christmas Pageant Ever. I laughed out loud all the way through this one. The main character, Frank Funicello, is the second cousin of Mouseketeer Annette, and that's a significant theme. Be sure and read all of Lamb's notes at the end - there's a little trick to the whole novel. Even as Christmas comes to an end, this is a great winter read.

The second one is The Last Noel by Michael Malone. I really like his writing. Handling Sin is one of the best novels ever about forgiveness and grace, and Foolscap is a hilarious romp through the English countryside and the world of playwrights and drama, modern and 17th century. The Last Noel is a little bit predictable is some ways, but it is a lovely story, following two people - one black, one white - who meet up as 7-year olds and meet each Christmas after. It's an interesting walk through the racial tensions of the '60's, especially how it would affect children and teenagers. Malone lives in North Carolina, and probably knows these themes well.

So on this last day of Christmas, I wish you all a Happy New Year and very happy reading.

Friday, November 12, 2010

A Tofino Friday

We've been at our favorite spot in Tofino for the last week - home on Monday. The weather has been alternately very stormy and beautifully sunny. Today has been sort of grey and foggy, but there have been a ton of surfers out there in the water - I bet somewhere between 150-200. Amazing little black heads bobbing above the waves everywhere. We have had our share of excellent food, and have enjoyed our routine of various projects, walks on the beach, and reading.

I finished Border Songs by Jim Lynch and enjoyed it very much. It's always fun to read about a place with which you have more than a passing acquaintance. The ending is a little too pat, perhaps, but the book is worth reading. I read that on my Kindle, which I am also enjoying a lot. It is a good reading experience. Now I'm reading the first of Dorothy L. Sayers' Lord Peter Wimsey novels, Whose Body?, which I also have on my Kindle. Every couple years I read all eleven novels again. They are full of so many wonderful things! I've been doing that from time to time over almost 40 years, and I'm not tired of it yet!

In between the e-book reads, I held a real book in my hands and raced through the latest Inspector Montalbano book by Andrea Camilleri, The Track in the Sand. I love these books! This one is worth it for the chapter about the charity horse race, and especially for the almost full-page description of Salvo Montalbano tasting a very bad soup!

The other projects have been knitting ones and computer clean-up tasks. Ugh to the latter, but it has to be done. We also had some Netflix discs with us, catching up on some TV we missed when we lived at Holden. So we watched some of last season's NCIS, and now we're doing Season 4 of Doc Martin. What a great show that is!

Since I mentioned the amazon Kindle, some comments about the current amazon boycott are in order. The book causing the protest is appalling in every regard. But any kind of censorship is also a slippery slope. I'm sure any of us could come up with novels and essays (Anais Nin comes to mind) where such territory is explored. So I'm not sure that boycotts or censorship are the solutions. I'll look forward to hearing your comments.